URBAN FORAGER: MEMORIES OF JUICY CHINESE DUMPLINGS

By CINDA CHAVICH

As the lunar calendar opens on the Year of the Rat, thoughts turn to Chinese feasts of pan-fried dumplings, whole fish steamed with black beans, and other lucky dishes that signal a prosperous new year.

In Chinese families, the New Year means new clothes, clean houses, red envelopes of “lucky money” and communal cooking, pinching and pleating of hundreds of dumplings. These perfect packages of ground pork, slivered cabbage and spices may be steamed or pan-fried, but one thing is certain, the round, golden snacks symbolize money and wealth. So at this time of year, you can never eat too many dumplings.

THE FOOD

When it comes to creating authentic Chinese cuisine at home, it depends which part of the country you want to explore. But whether its spicy Szechuan and noodles from the north, or dried shrimp paste and grilled fish from the coastal cities like Shanghai and Hong Kong, all Asian cooking depends on a variety of fresh vegetables, herbs and sauces.

Some ingredients for Chinese cooking can be purchased any large grocery store, but to get a good selection of authentic sauces and exotic produce, Asian markets are key.

On the noodle front, the selection of fresh choices is vast, whether you like fat Shanghai noodles, flat rice noodles or chewy steamed egg or wonton noodles, the best base for a saucy stir fry. Look for fresh noodles from local makers like Hung’s Noodle House.

It’s here that you’ll also find bags of frozen edamame (soy beans to steam for appetizers), Chinese sausages, banana and kaffir lime leaves. And vegetarians will find soy protein (aka tofu) in many forms – fried, pressed, puffed, stew-style, dessert-style, marinated, silken or even extruded into tofu noodles.

THE FIND

There are many Asian food stores in Calgary, but at the top of the heap is T&T Supermarket, the country’s largest Asian grocery store chain with two locations in Calgary and 12 more across the country.

On the sauce front, Chinese markets are a gold mine – several choices of the usual soy and hoisin sauces, plus bottles and jars of fish, chili, black bean, oyster, satay, XO and curry sauces and pastes.

At traditional markets, like the Lamda market on Centre Street, you’ll find giant, restaurant-sized 3.5 L jars of garlic chili sauce and massive tins of baby corn and coconut milk, alongside regular consumer sizes, the Sun Fat meat store and King’s Seafood shop inside the store, and the same brand name dumplings in the freezer. On 17th Avenue S.E., Shun Fat, is another large supermarket with a wide selection, and there are small grocers, like Can Fung, in Chinatown.

THE FIX

I tried three widely available supermarket brands, including those made locally by Ginger Beef Choice and Golden Happiness Frozen Foods, but I found the pork and chive dumplings from Sum-m! (Fine Choice Foods) in Richmond to be the best, for both flavour and presentation.

The Sum-m! brand dumplings were the smallest, and after 8 minutes of boiling, browned perfectly in the pan. The ground pork filling was flecked with green chives and had authentic Asian flavor. The dumpling skin was the thinnest and most delicate, and crispiest once pan-fried, while other brands failed to brown nicely and tended to be tough. This was the most expensive brand but the quality was noticeably superior.

So next time you plan an Asian feast, head to a Chinese grocery market – the frozen dumplings are delicious, and you’ll find a wide selection of Asian ingredients, from live fish to fresh exotic vegetables, herbs, noodles and even tableware, for authentic flavour and style.

Click here for dumpling recipe...

(This Urban Forager column ran in the February 2008 issue of Avenue magazine)

©Cinda Chavich 2008

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