By Cinda Chavich

Don’t worry if you’re unfamiliar with Paso Robles.

Even the wine press calls this corner of southern California a “hidden gem”. But Paso Robles, or just “Paso” in local parlance, is California’s fastest growing wine region, and one that should be on every wine lover’s touring map.

Tucked into the northern corner of San Luis Obispo County, about halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles along California’s Central Coast, Paso’s claim to fame is its hot dry days and cool nights, a unique microclimate tempered by the Pacific air that cuts through its rolling valleys every night from the nearby coast.

It’s that 40-degree temperature swing – the largest in any California appellation – and an extra long growing season, that makes Paso Robles such a perfect place to grow grapes, whether its their famous Zinfandels and Cabernet Sauvignons, or the Rhone varietals, like Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne that thrive in this Mediterranean climate. Even if you haven’t visited, you’ve likely tasted some of the distinctive wines made here - intense, lush reds, full of chocolate and violet aromas - from producers like J. Lohr, Tablas Creek, Treana and Liberty School.

That climate also makes Paso Robles a lovely place to live and tour, which is why nearly 170 wineries can be found along secondary roads branching off the main highway, between unpretentious towns like San Miguel in the north, through Templeton and south to San Luis Obispo. But unlike busier Napa or Sonoma, Paso is a quiet, laid back corner of California, where vineyards still share space with cattle ranches, orchards and olive groves.

Paso is also California’s largest wine region – 600,000 acres - so it’s best to base your tour in the town of Paso Robles. Here you’ll find a lovely park and town square, bounded by restaurants, wine shops, boutiques and hotels like the old Paso Robles Inn and stylish Hotel Cheval. Because the region is so large, and some of the wineries so new, there are a dozen winery storefronts and tasting rooms in downtown Paso to simplify a tasting tour.

Or you can head out into the rolling, oak-studded countryside to visit wineries big and small. Travel east of town along Route 46E to high tech, Swiss-owned Vina Robles, J. Lohr, Treana, EOS Estate and Robert Hall Winery, or west along 46W, where there are dozens of choices from the cult wines at L’Aventure to the rare Paso pinot noirs of Windward Vineyards. Up in the Santa Lucia Highlands, off Adelaida Road, you’ll find Tablas Creek – a project of the Perrin family, of Chateau Beaucastel fame – and Justin Vineyards, known for their award-winning Bordeaux and “Paso” (cab/syrah) blends.

Along with a charming inn, Justin also has an excellent winery restaurant. And there are more destination dining rooms popping up all the time, including chef Chris Kobayashi’s Artisan, Vinoteca Wine Bar or Bistro Laurent, all in downtown Paso. Panolivo has an olive oil tasting room or stop at Vivant Fine Cheese to pack a picnic.

Fly directly into San Luis Obispo, or take the three-hour drive down the coast from San Francisco or L.A., then take Highway 101 through the heart of Paso Robles wine country. You may be the first among your friends to discover this gem, but it won’t be hidden for long.

(This story first appeared in the Toronto Globe and Mail)

©Cinda Chavich 2008

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